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Aevum Vita 532 | ISCA UK Ltd
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Aevum Vita 532
Rheology Modifier
INCI: sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, C15-19 alkane, lauryl glucoside

Aevum Vita 532 is an anionic thickener and texturizing agent, which contains more than 65% natural origin content. Supplied in liquid form, and easy to use, Aevum Vita 532 provides effective thickening to a wide range of cosmetic formulations. It can be used over a wide pH range, in both hot or cold processes. In addition to its rheological properties, Aevum Vita 532 imparts a soft, light feel to end products.

Luxurious Skin Feel
Soft, Smooth Texture
Rheology
Stabilisation
Sensory Benefits
Recommended Dosage
IN USE CONCENTRATIONS ISCA RECOMMENDATION EU COSMETIC REGULATION (MAX)
LEAVE ON 2.0 - 4.0 % NO LIMIT
RINSE OFF 2.0 - 4.0 % NO LIMIT
In use concentrations vary according to the formulation type and the other ingredients present. The correct use dosage should be determined by microbial challenge testing of the finished formulation. ISCA UK offers discounted challenge testing to our customers.
Recommended Applications
SHAMPOO, SHOWER GEL (RINSE-OFF) W/O EMULSIONS ORAL CARE
CREAM, LOTION
(LEAVE-ON)
WET WIPES EYE CARE
O/W EMULSION LIP CARE CHILDREN UNDER 3
Use scenarios derived from evolution of cosmetic regulation guidelines and preservative performance for typical formulations.
Overview Documentation

Documents related to Aevum Vita 532 available for download.

If you require other material or statements, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Formulation

Our milk cleanser has been thoroughly investigated and stands as a proof-of-concept prototype for Aevum Vita 532. Our formulation has passed a European Pharmacopoeia challenge test and an in-house accelerated stability test.

Formulation has passed an EP Challenge Test (Report No. 23057)

Example Formulation

Nourishing Milk Renewal Cleanser

INGREDIENT % by weight
Rossa Damascena Flower Oil 84.75
Aqua 9.60
Aevum Vita 532 2.0
Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed oil 1.0
Ficus Carica (Fig) Extract 1.0
Iscaguard PEG 1.0
Squalane 0.5
Vitamin E 0.1
Citric Acid to pH 5.5 q.s.
Example Formulation

Nourishing Milk Renewal Cleanser

Skin Hydration after Application:

Formulations with and without Aevum Vita 532 were analysed for an increase in skin hydration. Aevum Vita 532 was shown to increase skin hydration by an extra 74% in skin hydration after 10 minutes.

Aevum Vita 532 Nourishing Milk Renewal Cleanser chart
Aevum Vita 406 percentage increase in foam height key icon
With Aevum Vita 532
Aevum Vita 406 percentage increase in foam height key icon
Without Aevum Vita 532

Skin hydration was measured using a Corneometer® CM 82. Average temperature 19°C, Average humidity: 49.5%
Based on the average of triplicate readings, our cleanser gave an extra 74% increase in skin hydration after 10 minutes in comparison to a formulation that did not contain Aevum Vita 532.

Aevum Vita 532 sensory testing
Example Prototype Formulation 2:
Gentle Seaweed Hand Cream

Our gentle seaweed hand cream uses Aevum Vita 532 (2%) to impart a silky and luxurious after-feel. Aevum Vita 532 is able to be used in O/W and W/O emulsion systems with high stability.

Formulation has passed an EP Challenge test (Report No. 23057)

Example Formulation

Gentle Seaweed Hand Cream

INGREDIENT %
Aqua 79.5
Coconut Oil 7.8
Glycerin 5.0
Glyceryl Stearate SE 4.0
Aevum Vita 532 2.0
Iscaguard OP 1.0
Seaweed Extract 0.5
Vitamin E 0.2
Citric Acid to pH 6.0 q.s.
Example Prototype Formulation 3:
Silicone-Free Make-Up Primer

Our silicone-free make-up primer uses 5.0% Aevum Vita 532 to achieve an effective make-up base, which not only provides exceptional sensory benefits, but also is able to combine oil ingredients in a largely aqueous formulation.  This formulation was blind tested on 25 volunteers and was positively received.

Formulation has passed an EP Challenge test (Report No. 23083)

Example Formulation

Silicone-Free Make-Up Primer

INGREDIENT %
Aqua 85.15
Rossa Damascena Flower Oil 7.0
Aevum Vita 525 5.0
Iscaguard PEG 1.0
PEG 40 Hydrogenerated Castor Oil 0.75
Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Seed oil 0.5
Glycerin 0.5
Vitamin E 0.1
Citric Acid to pH 5.5 q.s.
Cosmetic Formulations

Video Tutorials

VIDEO 1:
INTRODUCTION OF Aevum Vita 532

Aevum Vita 532 is an anionic thickener and texturising agent which imparts noticeable sensory benefits to the end formulation. It can be used to create smooth and silky emulsions.

Aevum Vita 532
VIDEO 2: How to Disperse Aevum Vita 532

Aevum Vita 532 is supplied as an off-white liquid. To use Aevum Vita 532, add the thickener to the formulation, and disperse under medium to high shear conditions. Maximum viscosity build is achieved after stirring for approximately 15 to 30 minutes.

Aevum Vita 532 can be added at any point and is suitable for hot or cold processes.

Aevum Vita 532
Stability Data
Stability Data
  Viscosity at 20 rpm (cP) at Time
Formulation 0 14 28 42 84
Nourishing Milk Renewal Cleanser 11350 11400 11350 11650 9900
Gentle Seaweed Hand Cream 19150 15850 16000 16100 20600
Silicone-Free Make-Up Primer 24550 23650 24550 22900 23150

Our formulations have passed an accelerated stability test at 40 °C. The viscosities were measured over time and showed that the formulations were stable and showed no visual degradation within this time.

Sensory Testing

Our silicone-free make-up primer was blind tested by 25 volunteers. Results showed that 88% of people would consider using this product on a regular basis, and the soft-after feel from Aevum Vita 532 was a clear sensory benefit.

Average ratings for after-feel, absorption, effectiveness, and skin-hydration were rating more than 7 out of 10.

Stickiness was rated 6 out of 10. In this case, this is within the optimum region for the formulation.

A make-up primer must be sticky enough to adhere make-up to skin flawlessly, without being unpleasant.

Aevum Vita 532 sensory testing
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