Aevum Vita 525 is an anionic thickener, supplied as a powder. It can be used to create crystal clear gels, or medium viscosity emulsions with a silky soft feel. In surfactant-based formulations, it provides enhanced foam stability, and it has excellent electrolyte resistance. Easily dispersed, Aevum Vita 525 is suitable for hot or cold processes, across a wide pH range.
ISCA have formulated Aevum Vita 525 in prototype products such as serums, facial gels and formulations which require suspended ingredients.
| IN USE CONCENTRATIONS | ISCA RECOMMENDATION | EU COSMETIC REGULATION (MAX) |
|---|---|---|
| LEAVE ON | 2.0 - 4.0 % | NO LIMIT |
| RINSE OFF | 2.0 - 4.0 % | NO LIMIT |
| SHAMPOO, SHOWER GEL (RINSE-OFF) | ✓ | W/O EMULSIONS | ✓ | ORAL CARE | ✓ |
| CREAM, LOTION (LEAVE-ON) |
✓ | WET WIPES | ✓ | EYE CARE | ✓ |
| O/W EMULSION | ✓ | LIP CARE | ✓ | CHILDREN UNDER 3 | ✓ |
Documents related to Aevum Vita 525 available for download.
If you require other material or statements, please do not hesitate to contact us.
Aevum Vita 525 can be used as a suspending agent for a variety of different solid materials such as seeds, pigments or exfoliant. The clarity of the final suspensions offer a sense of purity and luxury to the product.
Rejuvenating Chia Seed Mask
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 88.5 |
| Dimethyl sulfone | 2.5 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 2.0 |
| Iscaguard PEG | 1.0 |
| Salvia Hispanica Seed (Chia) | 1.0 |
| Glycerin | 0.5 |
| Chamomile Extract | 0.25 |
| Citric Acid to pH 4.6 | q.s. |
Our aloe vera and menthol cooling gel uses 1.5% Aevum Vita 525 to achieve an easy-to-apply and hydrated gel, perfect for reducing heat from the skin.
Aloe Vera Menthol Cooling Gel
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 78.2 |
| Aloe Vera Floral Water | 9.9 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 5.0 |
| Dimethyl Sulfone | 5.0 |
| Iscaguard PEG | 1.0 |
| Menthol | 1.0 |
| Seaweed Extract | 0.5 |
| Allantoin | 0.25 |
| Citric Acid to pH 4.6 | q.s. |
Aevum Vita 525 can be used in formulation of low pH and high electrolyte content. The taurate thickener offers clarity, stability and enhanced sensory benefit.
Restorative Fruit Blend Exfoliating Gel
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 84.4 |
| Aevum Vita 621 | 10.0 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 3.0 |
| Glycerin | 1.5 |
| Hamamelis Virginiana Water | 1.0 |
| Iscaguard KS | 0.1 |
| Sodium Hydroxide to pH 3.0 | q.s |
Aevum Vita 525 is suitable to enhance the compatibility of active ingredients in aqueous formulations. This formulation show cases a high level of diethyl toluamide in an insect repellent gel. The sensory benefits of using Aevum Vita 525 at just 1% are pronounced, offering a stable gel with an attractive after-feel.
Insect Repellent Protection Gel
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 86.9 |
| Diethyl Toluamide (DEET) | 10.0 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 1.0 |
| Iscaguard PEG | 1.0 |
| Glycerin | 1.0 |
| Citronellol | 0.1 |
| Sodium Hydroxide to pH 7.5 | q.s |
Aevum Vita 525 has been proven for use in surfactant systems with suspended exfoliants. This formulation incorporates 2.5% of bamboo beads for gentle cleansing. Additionally, this formulation has been assessed in a modified ASTM E2315 Time-Kill Test against C. acnes, giving 99.99% percentage reduction within 30 seconds.
Exfoliating Anti-Acne Face Wash
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 60.80 |
| Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30% active) | 16.67 |
| SLS Noodles | 10.00 |
| Bamboo Beads | 2.50 |
| Witch Hazel Water | 2.40 |
| Sodium Chloride | 2.00 |
| Coco Glucoside | 2.00 |
| Aevum Vita 406 | 1.00 |
| Lauryl Glucoside | 1.00 |
| Aloe Vera Water | 0.60 |
| Glycerin | 0.50 |
| Glyceryl Oleate | 0.50 |
| Citric Acid to pH 4.0 | q.s |
Aevum Vita 525 has been proven for use in surfactant systems with suspended exfoliants. This formulation incorporates 2.5% of bamboo beads for gentle cleansing.
Exfoliating SLS-free Face Wash
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 60.2 |
| Decyl Glucoside | 10.0 |
| Cocamidopropyl betaine | 7.0 |
| Coco Glucoside | 6.0 |
| Aevum Vita 406 | 4.0 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 3.5 |
| Bamboo Beads | 2.5 |
| Lauryl Glucoside | 2.0 |
| Hamamelis Virginiana Water | 2.0 |
| Glyceryl Olelate | 1.5 |
| Glycerin | 0.7 |
| Aloe Vera Water | 0.6 |
| Citric Acid to pH 4.65 | q.s |
Aevum Vita 525 has been tested by an independent third-party microbiology laboratory for its suitability in microbiome conscious formulations. Our thickener has shown to not significantly alter the balance of skin bacteria and could offer great potential for use in microbiome-friendly skincare.
Microbiome Conscious Hand Cream
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 77.15 |
| Coconut Oil | 8.30 |
| Glyceryl Stearate SE | 5.0 |
| Glycerin | 4.0 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 4.0 |
| Aevum Vita 621 | 1.5 |
| Tocopherol | 0.2 |
| Iscaguard KS | 0.1 |
Our face sheet solution formulation is packed with active ingredients which are tied together by a low dosage of Aevum Vita 525 at 0.1%. At this level, Aevum Vita 525 provide stability, sensory benefits and the desired viscosity for a luxurious experience.
Hydrating HA Vitamin B3 Gel for Face Sheet
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 75.0 |
| Organic Rose Hydrosol | 20.7 |
| Phenoxyethanol | 0.8 |
| Glycerin | 0.8 |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | 0.5 |
| Niacinamide | 0.5 |
| Sodium PCA | 0.3 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 0.3 |
| Sodium Benzoate | 0.2 |
| Disodium EDTA | 0.2 |
| Urea | 0.2 |
| Trehalose | 0.2 |
| Polyquaternium-51 | 0.2 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 0.1 |
| Sodium Hydroxide to pH 3.88 | q.s |
Our anti-oxidant face sheet gel showcases Aevum Vita 525’s compatibility of high electrolyte content. The formulation can provide stability to ferulic acid and vitamin C. At just 1.0% of Aevum Vita 525 provide stability, sensory benefits and the desired viscosity for a luxurious experience.
Anti-oxidant CE Ferulic Acid Gel for Face Sheet
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 47.3 |
| Organic Rose Hydrosol | 19.9 |
| Dipropylene Glycol | 16.92 |
| Ascorbic Acid | 9.95 |
| Tocopherol | 1.24 |
| Glycerin | 1.09 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 1.0 |
| Phenoxyethanol | 1.0 |
| Lauryl Glucoside | 1.0 |
| Ferulic Acid | 0.5 |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | 0.2 |
| Citric acid to pH 3.88 | q.s |
Our caffeine and hyaluronic acid gel uses 2.0% Aevum Vita 525 to achieve a hydrating gel which is able to incorporate key ingredients and salt-based preservatives, without resulting in a loss of viscosity or sensory benefit.
Adjusted to pH 4.9 using citric acid
Awakening Caffeine Eye Serum
| INGREDIENT | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 94.9 |
| Aevum Vita 525 | 2.0 |
| Aquaguard NK12 | 1.0 |
| Aevum Vita 167 | 0.5 |
| Squalene | 0.5 |
| Dimethyl Sulfone (MSM) | 0.5 |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | 0.5 |
| Caffeine | 0.1 |
Sensory testing for 15 volunteers showed that the caffeine eye gel formulation was positively received. Volunteers rated the formulation based on 5 factors.
| STICKINESS | 1 - VERY STICKY, 10 - NOT STICKY |
|---|---|
| ABSORPTION | 1 - DOES NOT ABSORB WELL,
10 - ABSORBS VERY WELL |
| SKIN HYDRATION | 1 - SKIN DOES NOT FEEL HYDRATED,
10 - SKIN FEELS WELL HYDRATED |
| EFFECTIVENESS - AGAINST LINES, TIREDNESS, PUFFINESS |
1 - NOT AN EFFECTIVE EYE SERUM,
10 - EFFECTIVE EYE SERUM |
| AFTER FEEL | 1 - UNPLEASANT AFTER FEEL,
10 - PLEASANT AFTER FEEL |
Skin hydration was measured using a Corneometer® CM 82. Based on the average of triplicate readings, our eye gel gave 206% increase in skin hydration after 5 minutes, and 130% after 10 minutes.
Video Tutorials
INTRODUCTION OF Aevum Vita 525
Aevum Vita 525 is an anionic thickener which shows high compatibility with most cosmetic ingredients. A brief and overall summary of the behaviour of Aevum Vita 525 is given.
Aevum Vita 525 is suppled as a white powder. To use Aevum Vita 525, add the thickener to the formulation slowly and portion wise, and disperse under medium shear conditions. Maximum viscosity build is achieved after stirring for approximately 15 to 30 minutes.
Aevum Vita 525 can be added at any point and is suitable for hot or cold processes.
Aevum Vita 525 has been assessed alongside a competitor product in aspects such as viscosity build, salt tolerance, pH stability and compatibility.
Aevum Vita 525 and a competitor thickener were evaluated for their viscosity performance at concentrations of 0.5% and 1.5% in deionized water only. The results indicate that while both thickeners achieve similar viscosities at 1.5%, Aevum Vita 525 delivers a 129% higher viscosity at 0.5% when measured at 20 rpm.
Aevum Vita 525 and the competitor thickener exhibit comparable pH tolerance within the range of pH 2 to 9. However, both are not recommended for use in formulations with a pH greater than 8.5, as ammonia may be released when a base is added during pH adjustment. This study was conducted using deionised water only, and the actual viscosities in a final formulation at the same pH may differ.
Aevum Vita 525, along with a competitor thickener, has been utilised to enhance the viscosity of our standard Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) exfoliating gel. This formulation features a high concentration of active acids and electrolytes.
| Ingredients | % |
|---|---|
| Aqua | 84.4% |
| Glycerin | 1.5% |
| Iscaguard KS | 0.1% |
| Aevum Vita 621 | 10.0% |
| Hamamelis Virginiana Water | 1.0% |
| Thickener | 3.0% |
| Sodium Hydroxide | q.s. to pH 2.98-3.02 |
Viscosity at 20 rpm (cP) |
|
| Aevum Vita 525 | 29000 |
| Competitor | 15100 |
Figure 1:
AHA Exfoliating Gel thickened by competitor product (left beaker)
and Aevum Vita 525 (right beaker).This formulation achieves a viscosity 92% higher with Aevum Vita 525 as the thickener compared to the competitor product, demonstrating superior compatibility with increased electrolyte content and lower pH levels. Additionally, Aevum Vita 525 provides enhanced stability, with no discoloration observed. The competitor product showed discolouration within 24 hours.
Both gels underwent blind sensory testing, during which volunteers were asked to select their preferred formulation. All five participants (100%) individually favoured the gel thickened with Aevum Vita 525, offering unprompted feedback like, "absorbed into my skin faster," "[competitor] felt a bit sticky on the skin, whereas [Aevum Vita 525] doesn’t," and "easy application, soft to the touch."
